A modest but growing number of international pilgrims are returning to the island of Djerba in Tunisia for the annual Jewish pilgrimage to the Ghriba synagogue — Africa’s oldest — as authorities maintain heightened security and a subdued atmosphere following a deadly attack in 2023.
The pilgrimage, which historically drew thousands of worshippers from Europe and beyond, has seen attendance plummet since the May 2023 attack that killed two congregants and three police officers. This year’s event has been marked by caution rather than celebration, with organizers emphasizing the gradual restoration of confidence despite lingering fears.
Security Remains Paramount
René Trabelsi, the pilgrimage organizer and former tourism minister, said approximately 200 international pilgrims had arrived this year, a fraction of the numbers seen before the attack but a steady improvement from the suppressed turnout of 2024.
‘Confidence in this pilgrimage is starting to come back. Given the international context and the problems in the Middle East, that’s understandable,’ Trabelsi said. ‘But the Tunisian authorities have put in place exceptional security measures, whether at the airport, around the island, or here at the La Ghriba pilgrimage itself.’
Security forces have deployed heavily around the historic synagogue, which dates back centuries and sits in the village of Er-Riadh. Access has been restricted, and celebrations that once characterized the festival have been suspended out of respect for victims.
Mourning Continues, But Worship Persists
Perez Haddad, who is in charge of the synagogue, said religious activities have continued without interruption since 2024, with the temple remaining open for prayer and rites.
‘We are currently seeing visitors return, but only for religious rites. Since 2024, we have not closed the temple, and we cannot prevent rites from being carried out there,’ Haddad said. ‘However, as far as celebrations are concerned, we have not yet resumed them, for several reasons: the main one is that we are still in mourning for the victims, and the second is that visitors are still afraid to come back.’
In February 2026, a Tunisian court sentenced five people to long prison terms for their role in the 2023 attack, which authorities described as premeditated. The ruling provided some closure, but many pilgrims remain wary of the broader security environment in the region.
A Symbol of Coexistence
For some returning pilgrims, the journey to Djerba is also an act of defiance against extremism and an affirmation of Tunisia’s tradition of relative religious coexistence.
‘I feel that we’re given a very warm welcome in Tunisia, despite what’s in the news, despite everything people might tell us,’ said Philippe Uzzan, a French pilgrim. ‘We feel loved, because the problem today is that people don’t know each other. There’s a lot of mistrust, but here, there’s no mistrust.’
Tunisia has historically been seen as a moderate Arab state, with a small but historically significant Jewish community centered on Djerba. The Ghriba pilgrimage, which takes place around the Lag BaOmer holiday, has long been a symbol of the country’s religious diversity.
The gradual revival of the pilgrimage, while still constrained by security concerns, represents a cautious step toward normalcy for one of North Africa’s most distinctive religious traditions. Organizers say they are hopeful that attendance will continue to recover, provided the security situation remains stable.